I broke out my little flask of Jim Beam bourbon last night to share, with a view to breaking down any barriers (if necessary), warming me up, and hoping it would help me sleep.

Jim let me down.

Also last night, there was a mad scramble to charge phones and batteries as the generator was only on for 2 hours. Now, in the pre-dawn dark,  we all move in slow motion as if we have broken limbs. No one got much sleep and it is a big day today.

Nowhere is volcanic activity and grumblings just below the surface of this planet more apparent than when you see geysers in action up close. Despite signs, tourists were lined up within metres of gushing steam erupting from cavernous holes. The mist then froze in the subzero temperature, covering us with specks of snow; in the early morning light it was spectacular.

How do you follow something like that? With endless vistas and unique landscapes. A blue lake with flamingos; a red lake coloured by algae; ‘Stone Trees’; rocky canyons; lunch at an eco-lodge; passing boulders strewn as if giants had played marbles and were called away mid-game; llamas grazing; ancient Quechuan potato farms on hillsides; a desert township being devoured by sand and dust; and finally our destination – a real hotel (not hostel) for the night.

Throughout the day we breathe in these astonishing views.

And always under a canopy of deep blue sky.

However, despite travelling through the gorgeousness, things were not going well inside the 4 wheel drive. Even though we had a constant background music choice of Queen, Rolling Stones, or Latin dancey rap, or back to Queen or Rolling Stones, three of our group were not feeling the best – one already had diarrhoea, and one was unwell with headache. I was the third person, and I felt headachy and like throwing up every time we lurched in the car, which, being an off-road vehicle driving through rocky desert, was every second of the trip. It was excruciating, and being in the centre of the seat didn’t help. The windows were up because of the dust, and it was 4 degrees or something ridiculous outside so we couldn’t wind down the windows or else everyone would freeze. The driver finally relented when it got to the middle of the day and we were baking. By then I thought I may pass out.

I had medication, but it was not easily accessible. It was in my suitcase. Under the tarp. On the roof of the 4WD. The driver was not against getting it for me, just a little reluctant. When I explained  – in a mix of Spanish and dramatic hand gestures – that I may vomit inside the car he changed his mind. The pills worked immediately but I was fragile the rest of the day, gingerly getting in and out of the car at each stop.

We knew we were close to the end of the day when we reached the edge of a vast white plain. This was the start of the Salar or Salt Flats, what this part of Bolivia, or more correctly Uyuni, is famous for.

We drive up onto an escarpment where our hotel is situated. We have not washed nor slept well for a couple of days and this place is heaven. It is also made of salt.

But first, we gaze with excitement over toward the distant horizon; tomorrow we will be there, the place I have come on this trip to see.