I am officially half-way through my four month sojourn by the time I arrive in Vienna. It is difficult to believe what I have seen and done, and that I have been to some of the places I have always dreamed of going to, with so much still to see.

I am meeting and staying with friends then relatives, but only for three days – a flying visit – but it is surprising what I cover in that short time; some city and some countryside.

As soon as I arrive I am impressed with the Austrian efficiency. Every train and train station has freely accessible wifi! And the larger ones have luggage storage. I am given clear instructions where and when to meet my friend, but even without it would have been easy  to find her – everything is well sign-posted and most speak English. And clean. Not that Paris was dirty, but Vienna is scrupulously so. Once I store my luggage I make my way up and outdoors into the rain and the main square where St Stephan’s Cathedral is situated.  The square has been pedestrianised. I have been to Vienna briefly before and I recognise the square where we had some drinks, and even the stand selling sausages. I have a bit of time to kill so I wander around the landmarks.

Vienna is, in a word, Culture. I am reminded that Vienna was once, and probably still is, one of the stops on the Grand Tour that any self-respecting wealthy landed gentry and high society from Europe visited a couple of centuries ago, with attendance at balls and dancing the waltz a requirement, where ladies would swish by in their long skirts being twirled by handsome men. Classical concerts highlighting Mozart, as well as operas and ballets, are on offer by legal touts dressed like Mozart or coachmen from that era. Horse-drawn carriages abound to make you believe you still are in that era. The hooves’ clip clop sound makes everyone’s heads turn and watch the carriage pass by, drawn by majestic horses in their regalia. There is a world-renowned Spanish Riding School here, established in 1572. I would love to see a performance but have no time. That and the Viennese Boys Choir , and of course a concert, are on my next to-do list. As well, many famous artists have their works on show including Klimt, architecture, literature (there is a statue to Goethe, author of Faust), emperors and empresses, museums, palaces, churches, and other grandeur. Vienna’s history is of course older than this as it is built on top of Roman ruins – it is surprising to see how far north the Romans conquered – but the resplendent nature of the city is calling me and drawing me into its embrace.

I venture to the cathedral. Its exterior is being restored and inside there is a hush. The rain subdues any sound. Inside it looks even more gothic. I try not to disturb those praying.

Once I meet up with my friends they treat me to a crash course in authentic Austrian cuisine. Soup of beef broth with sliced pancakes – warming and tasty; Wiener Schnitzel with cranberry sauce and a mix of green and potato salad with pumpkin seed oil – to die for; a shared dessert of puff pastry with cream and Sachertorte, like a moist chocolate cake – yummo. And all washed down with Sturm, made from grapes not yet reached fermentation stage to become wine and only available at this time of year with fresh harvests, it is like delicious alcoholic grape juice. Sturm means storm or cloudy and represents the colour – with white wine it looks almost like milk. It is similar to the Pisco Sours I had in South America, also made with white wine, seeming unobtrusive but deadly dangerous because they are so easy to throw back and are addictive. I’ll be drinking a lot more of this during my stay.

The next day I catch the efficient metro to spend time at other Vienna landmarks.

Not much later I am perched almost 65 metres above Vienna in a suspended carriage that is rocking back and forth with the weight of ten people moving around taking photos, inside the well-known Prater Ferris Wheel. I wanted to do it, to test my fear of heights. I am actually ok with being up there which surprises me but when it starts rocking I get those tell-tale butterflies, but I calm myself down and enjoy the rest of the ride, distracting myself with taking photos too. It is a fabulous view. Later, I feel quite proud of myself that I faced the fear by buying a ticket and actually going on it.

You can tell a lot by what images are used on souvenirs in the countries I am visiting. The ‘in’ joke in parts of the world is that people get Austria and Australia confused, so there are references to “No kangaroos in Austria”. The emperor Franz Josef and his wife Empress Sisi are still popular, so I get a photo with them. I thought it was cool. I don’t know what they thought of me.

I am to meet my friend at the Hofburg Palace so I make my way to her enjoying the sights along the way. In the park near the palace, a busker is playing on a violin. You guessed it. A waltz.

 

What a treat! I am inside the Palace of the Hapsburgs. It is used these days for parties and conventions, but what a place to have business meeting. I drool over the opulence and ornate artistry of the period decor. It is a fascinating glimpse into their lives. I end the day with a stroll back through the gardens, past Mozart, and home. I am filled to the brim with history, regal glamour, magnificence, and ceremony. Tomorrow, the countryside beckons.