Upon my return to Bangkok (BKK) from Phuket I meet the formidable deities that guard the entry into Thailand at BKK’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport, which appears to be one of the most well laid out, well signed, and organised airports I’ve come across on this spin around the world. Disparity between extremes here is astounding, though. I saw a muddy mosquito-infested canal running beside the road from the airport encircled by a modern two-way dedicated bicycle track. To get to and from the modern airport and bustling freeways you pass through potholed streets with empty work sites filled with rubbish. One night the power went out and the whole grid in which my airport hotel was located went black. It was strange to look out from my window and see my suburb in darkness in contrast to the blinding lights of the airport not far from me with airplanes taking off.

I have two nights in BKK before flying home. A perfect way to end my ‘just a taste’ tour of the world is with a Thai cooking course morsel, but first, some sights.

My sample of Thailand in Phuket proved that the Thai people are generally respectful, sweet-natured, and friendly, and smile back at me. I didn’t have anyone hassling me. As their King recently died, tourists were asked to dress appropriately and cover up. I saw quite a few Thais wearing black armbands as a sign of respect. The King seems to have been well loved. Despite the heat, I always cover up in Asian countries as a form of respect – dress like the locals is the best, I feel –  so it is quite shocking to see some Western women in shorts so short that their buttocks are hanging out. No one else dresses this way, not even tourists from other countries and not the Thais, except in the red light district. In Phuket, which is essentially a beach resort island, I can understand the men going shirtless and the women wearing sheer dresses to cover their swimmers etc, but in BKK it is unnecessary, inappropriate, and seeing that they are officially in mourning for their King, disrespectful.

My cheap airport hotel has a free airport shuttle service so I take advantage of this to get to the Skytrain station. It sounds like a contradiction in terms to have a Skytrain start its journey in the depths underneath the airport but it emerges from the precinct and travels above ground, and above everything else including the highways, toward the city. It is fast, efficient, well-signed, and each station is announced in both Thai and perfect English. Even transferring to the local train networks is smooth and easy to understand. People line up in an orderly manner; all very well thought out. I want to see the Gold Buddha, and later, reach the Grand Palace close to the Chao Phraya river that dissects BKK. I meet up with a fellow traveller and together we navigate our way via tuktuk into the central part of town.

The Gold Buddha sits inside an striking pagoda and, after taking off our shoes, we enter in hushed silence. Many are gathered around it paying respects and placing offerings. It sits a couple of metres off the ground on a pedestal, and is approximately just over three metres high.

Next, we discover that part of the Grand Palace that I want to see is closed due to royal funereal and commemorative goings on there. Instead we cross the river by ferry to get to the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho). Getting onto the ferry boat is essentially a jump off the pier onto a moving crowded vessel. The river traffic is chaotic and there’s noise, debris in the water, and heat to contend with as we make our way to another larger temple complex. This Buddha is magnificent! WOW. His feet are embedded with mother-of-pearl designs and the size is just overwhelming, even lying down and resting on one arm. After we take off our shoes to enter, you can hear a methodical tinkle in the background. It’s not until you are inside and passing the other side of the Buddha that you realise what the sound is: the tinkle of coin offerings being dropped into metal bowls. It adds a unique musical quality to the transcendent nature of the visit.

I am so happy to have been able to see the two Buddhas that are so important in Thai society. I will have to visit the Grand Place next time.

The next day I make my way into town by train again, but this time my destination is the cooking school that the woman I met on the plane to Phuket had tried and loved. It costs THB 1000 (approx AUD$40) for pickup from the train station, a visit to the local market for the ingredients, cooking a four course meal and making curry paste from scratch, and eating it, over 6 hours or so. What’s not to like about that offer?!

The Sompong Thai Cooking School has a different daily menu for the students to cook. I happen to be there on a Friday where we will make our own Massaman curry paste and Chicken Curry, Fried Rice, a prawn soup called Tom Yum Kung (MY ABSOLUTE FAVE), and a sweet pumpkin in coconut milk dessert. I am over the moon.

The teacher speaks excellent English and demonstrates slowly and twice so we can pick it up. It is very much hands-on. My fellow students come from Australia, France, China, and Italy. First, we explore the nearby local market and buy fresh produce for our creations. Then it’s to work, cutting, chopping, stirring, pounding, heating, and presenting on a plate. Then we can try our own work of art. And I don’t mind saying that I did a damn good job – it is delish!

What a fabulous way to end my morsel of Thailand. We even got a cookbook so we can replicate our wondrous masterpieces at home.

…

I am ready to go home. Long term travel is a fabulous experience. But it will be great to see my family. I have video-called them throughout the whole trip, but there is nothing quite like an enormous hug from a loved one. It will be nice to again hear Australian accents, drink water from the tap, and travel in well ordered traffic, among other things. At last, it is time to return home to Brisbane. But the story doesn’t end there.

My fear of flying is well and truly cured. I have no issue with take-off on my final flight though I am feeling a mix of anxious to get home and sad to know it is all over – a strange combination. It is a day-time flight, so I take the opportunity, instead of sleeping like on overnight flights, to watch three English-speaking movies back-to-back. Thai Airways are fantastic.

Part way into the first movie, the captain makes an announcement immediately requiring a doctor or nurse on board. They are serving the meal but I tell the cabin crew that I am a nurse, if I can be of assistance. Straight away she directs me to the back row of that section where three doctors are in conference with a pale, breathless, sweaty woman and her adult daughter, who are Pakistani and travelling to visit relatives in Brisbane. I immediately tell the doctors I am there to help. The two male doctors (Dr B and C) continue to question the daughter while the female doctor (Dr A) and I attend to the ‘patient’. I feel the ‘patient’s’ pulse. It is thready but regular, but I can tell that the patient is having trouble speaking and is almost fainting so I suggest we lay her down across the three seats. Dr A agrees and together we struggle to lift her legs up in the confined space between rows. Meanwhile, Dr B has asked for oxygen, a blood sugar testing kit as well as a blood pressure cuff. I help the patient get her top outer layer off and support her head with a pillow. When the cuff arrives I assist Dr A with getting the blood pressure by holding up the patient’s arm, and readjusting the cuff when Dr A puts it on the wrong way around. In the meantime, the cabin crew are trying to help us with getting oxygen etc while the meal service is still happening – a bit chaotic. Also, there is no blood sugar kit. Her blood pressure is ok. When the oxygen cylinder arrives, I kneel in the walkway beside the patient, attach the oxygen mask to the patient and switch it on, all the while talking to her and holding her hand. She has cooled off somewhat now that her outer layer is off.

We find out that she has not eaten since her first flight earlier that morning from Pakistan to BKK. They ask for a juice. I stay kneeling on the floor beside her head, cooling her forehead with a wet washer, talking to her and keeping her awake and calm, but also in order to see any decrease in consciousness as soon as it happens. They find some juice for her and I give her sips of the cool, sweet, fluid. She perks up straight away. Drs B and C thought that she may be diabetic but determine that she has angina medication in her cabin luggage. After all these interventions her condition improves to the point where the other doctors disperse and I am no longer needed. Dr A stays seated opposite the patient to continue to monitor her. This whole process takes about an hour. But throughout the flight, whenever I need a toilet break or a movie finishes, I purposely walk past them all to check on the patient as well as Dr A. I offer Dr A a break from keeping an eye on the patient if she needs it. She smiles appreciatively and says no, she is fine. We chat and I find out she works in Toowoomba. The rest of the flight is uneventful – later, the patient is even able to sit up to eat a little – and the patient will go straight to hospital in Brisbane when we land.

As soon as the tyres touch the ground in Brisbane, I breathe a sigh of relief and anticipation. I cannot believe my trip is over. I cannot believe that I achieved so much. When the seatbelt sign goes off, I stand and fetch my cabin bag and stand in the aisle to exit. While waiting there, I look back about ten rows toward the patient and Dr A. Dr A sees me and smiles. I give her a questioning thumbs up. She nods and returns the gesture.

I smile and dance off the plane to Brisbane, to Australia, to my home, to my family, and friends. Thank you ♥